wter wizard ll

Just took over a wash in Anchorage,Ak. My last wash had first generation wizards and now my new wash has the second generation wizards. Does anyone have any decent recipes. All of these machines are out of wack. I think alot has to do with the chemicals they are using. I used eco-lab at my last wash and cars came out great. Any ideas?

what is your question?

Recipe programming is a little more complicated on the 2.0, but they are very flexible. Coleman's stock recipes don't usually make much sense to me. Pm me if you need any help, but I don't deal with snow so your programming may need to be different.

What are the normal titrations and if anyone has any good 8 pass recipes for getting the cars really clean? I am use to having a boom drop with my pre-soak nozzles fixed to the ocsillators and boom. The ww ll is missing that function. They are using about 22oz of chemical per wash, when i was only using about 6oz before to get the same outcome.

Titrations would depend on the chemical. From most set ups I have seen using a quality soap you can use a Drak Brown tip on the hydrominder. The tip chart dilutions are just a guide, kind of a starting point. The soap never titrates inline with the chart. With the main soap I use in Water Wizards it typically titrates at 1:45-1:55.

The actual usage will vary. The wash programming being the biggest factor of that. In my 2.0s typical usage per car is 4-7 ounces depending on the wash package.

Powdered formulations are typically drawn at a stronger ratio. It is not unusual to see a a box of powder that makes 55 gallons of solution for 60-100 dollars, but you have to draw it at 15-25:1 or so, so there is usually no real cost savings and material handling is increased due to the lower concentration. I know some people that swear they can't get performance out of a liquid that they can get out of powder, but the convenience factor is a big issue for me. Bottom line is you have to do the cost per car math yourself. I prefer to do it by marking container with car counts, not a cpc analysis based on a few cars run through.

I get good coverage on my 2.0 if wind blowing through the bay is not an issue. On one location (depending on which way the wind blows) the backs or fronts of cars may not be covered adequately. I plan to solve this by installing wyndstar door eventually. You also need to ensure the presoak tilt solenoids are functioning properly. You may also need to extend the time on the presoak before the gantry moves at the beginning of pass two, especially if you are lo-hi. I think I have mine set at 5.0 seconds.

This would eight pass or a lo/hi setup with stationary blowers

1presoak low ph short dwell fast gantry speed
2presoak high ph long dwell fast gantry speed
3rocker panel regular speed ( or slow)
4High pressure wash slow speed (or ultraslow) bug pass boom down on both ends
5Tricolor regular speed
6 CCP high pressure regular speed
7CCP medium pressure regular(or fast) speed
8 Spot free rinse regular speed, blowers

If you have low pressure wax option change pass #6 to rinse and pass #7 to low pressure wax

A twenty drop titration will clean well with out wasting

br549 you're gonna have to be more specific about that . What are you using for titrant and indicator?

And chemical? Each manufacturer's soap will titrate differently and is meant to be done with their own kit.

Greg
1% hydrochloric using bromophenol blue (electrophoresis grade) indicator.

Parris
Wrong . An acid-base titration is a neutralization reaction. Do you have some new chemistry for the scientific world? Granted, soda ash titrated to STTP will give the same result, but sodium carbonate is half as strong as STTP.

I'm using .5N HCL for titrant and bromphenol blue. I don't know how to convert Normality to a percentage. Will have to figure that out to see where I sit.

MEP, I have played with probably a dozen presoaks or so. In addition to the mfgs titration kit, I test all with the same titrant and indicator to get a reading of total alkalinity. There are other factors at play, but using my standard gives me a way to compare total alkalinity of the solution. I've found all of them can have their alkalinity raised to a certain point to be much more effective than presoak alone. I'm currently using Extreme mfg by SP, boosted by dual tipping the eductor with a mixture of potassium and sodium hydroxide. A purple tip on both products gets me to where I need to be. When I had a vector briefly I used another injector for the boost. That boost triples the alkalinity. Granted, I'm just "burning" the dirt off, but hey it works. I'm still looking for that magic bullet that doesn't require all that alkalinity.